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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. Yet, situated high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble shop earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.